Slow Down and Enjoy

Text: Sandra-stella Triebl
Photos: Lallier

Ladies Drive No. 70. Slow Down and Enjoy. Lallier Champagne. Dominique Demarville
Ladies Drive No. 70 Cover (Sommer 2025): Der Lebensstil für mehr digitale Achtsamkeit und Fokus

The Art of Champagne with Lallier’s Famous Chef de Cave Dominique Demarville

Founded in 1906 in Aÿ, in the heart of the Champagne region, Lallier has earned a reputation as one of the finest boutique champagne houses in France. With a philoso­­phy deeply rooted in respect for the terroir and a commitment to authenticity, Lallier’s uniqueness lies in its unwavering focus on craftsmanship and quality in order to ex­­­press the essence and natural evolution of the vineyards. Unlike larger Maisons that rely heavily on volume, Lallier prioritises precision, expressing the purest form of its origins through every bottle. The brand’s ethos is centred around the concept of “Terroir and Time”, combining meticulous selection of grapes with a patient, hands-off approach to winemaking.

At the helm of Lallier is Dominique Demarville (58), who serves as both General Manager and Chef de Cave. His appointment marked a significant moment in the brand’s evolution. Dominique, a highly re­­­spected figure in the Champagne indus­­try, previously held the prestigious role of Chef de Cave at Veuve Clicquot, one of the most renowned houses globally. His move to a smaller, terroir-focused Maison like Lallier underscores his dedication to artistry and craftsmanship.

A Chef de Cave, or Cellar Master, holds one of the most critical roles in any champagne house. Responsible for overseeing the entire winemaking process, from vineyard selection to blending and ageing, the Chef de Cave ensures that the house style remains consistent within the different ranges.

So keeping the same style but always showing the current harvest, is mainly the concept of the Réflexion range. Lallier also offers Milésimés and there it’s more about the year, or for example the Blanc de Blancs – these creations focus on a specific style.

When it comes to pushing non vintage, Lallier is among those pioneers who have departed from the traditional principle and prioritise the expression of the base year over the consistency of a specific flavour profile. This also shows Lallier’s pursuit of excellence and how it authentically embra­­ces nature’s yearly variations.

In the case of Dominique Demarville, his influence is immediately perceptible. With a career spanning over four decades, Domi­nique combines technical expertise with an intuitive understanding of the terroir, enabling him to craft champagnes that are deeply expressive and one of a kind.

Lallier’s production is intimately tied to its location in Aÿ, one of only 17 villages classified as Grand Cru in Champagne. The house sources a significant portion of its grapes from its own vineyards, supplemented by trusted growers with whom it has long-standing relationships. This control over the fruit ensures that the champagnes reflect the distinctive minerality, elegance, and power that is characteristic of the Aÿ terroir.

Under Dominique’s leadership, Lallier has continued to refine its style, focusing on purity, freshness, intensity and depth, embedded in a delicate balance between fruit and structure. Another innovation introduced by Lallier is its emphasis on transparency. Each bottle includes detailed information about the blend, vintage com­­ponents, dosage, and disgorgement date. This openness is rare in Champagne and speaks to the brand’s confidence in its craft and commitment to authenticity.

Dominique Demarville’s vision for Lallier is both respectful of tradition and keenly forward-looking. He acknowledges the growing importance of sustainable viticulture and has initiated measures to reduce environmental impact across vineyard management and production processes. His goal is to ensure that Lallier not only maintains its high standards but also leads by example in a changing industry landscape.

In addition to his technical acumen, Domi­nique brings a deep emotional connection to his work. As I asked him about the scent of his childhood, he answered with a smile on his face: “Lily of the valley. My two grandfathers were all about gardening. I love the spring and scent of flowers, especially Lily of the valley”. He grew up in the Ardennes region – and nobody in his family had a connection whatsoever with vine growing or vineyards. “But I remember that my grandfather always opened a bottle of wine – every Sunday – to celebrate the fact that we were having a good time with the family”. That Dominique would end up with such a huge career in one of the famous Maisons de Champagne, was a lucky coincidence – or fate. “I was in agricultural school and my best friend asked me if I would help with the harvest together with his family in Champagne. And I thought: that’s a good idea! That was in 1985, it was late October. When I started to pick the grapes, it was like a ‘coup de foudre’, it struck me like lightning!” – Dominique smiles all over his face while sharing his first experience in the vineyard. Right after this first harvest in Champagne, he started to study vines and winemaking. “You see my grey hair? – that was 40 years ago”, he smiles happily. It seems as if this was the best thing that ever happened to him in life. “I cross my fingers the next 40 years are going to be amazing as well!”.

Today he is the heart of Lallier, bringing his love, passion, art and science together. This balance of precision and sensitivity is evident in every aspect of Lallier’s production that allows the wines to develop complexity and depth. Beyond its Grand Cru roots and exceptional winemaking, Lallier distinguishes itself through its size. As a smaller, independent house, it offers a level of craftsmanship and attention to detail that is increasingly rare in a market dominated by luxury conglomerates. This human scale enables Lallier to focus on quality without compromise, staying true to its founding principles.

For Dominique, the magic of Champagne can be pinned down to two things: first of all, the soil and the climate. And the second: “It’s the bubbles. The effervescence which makes champagne so versatile. It’s about the celebration and joy of life”. Lallier’s portfolio includes a range of champagnes – but across the range, a common thread of elegance, vibrancy, and mineral precision ties the wines together, reflecting both the unique qualities of the land and the meticulous care of the Chef de Cave. “Whenever I’m happy and I want to share this time with people I love, I pop open a bottle of champagne”, Dominique says with glowing eyes. “You know, champagne is such a passionate product – it has its own pace and takes a lot of time. Sometimes people ask me, why don’t you have this product on the market? – And I tell them: because it’s not ready. We have to wait to get the best quality we expect. And time is time – we cannot compress it!”. So the Maitre de Cave is also sort of a protector who makes sure that nature can work her magic through time.

Today, with Dominique Demarville at the helm, Lallier stands at a compelling intersection of history and innovation. As the brand looks to expand its reach while staying grounded in its core values, it offers a powerful reminder of what champagne can achieve when passion, expertise, and respect for nature are placed at the centre of production.

In an industry often dazzled by marketing and luxury trappings, Lallier and Domi­nique Demarville present a return to essentials: the land, the grape, the craft. Their work ensures that every bottle of Lallier is not merely a drink but a true expression of its origin and a testament to the enduring art of champagne-making. “We need high quality grapes to make an exceptional champagne. Everything starts in the vineyard. And the second thing is winemaking and blending – the precision of blending to be exact. And then: as mentioned, it’s about time – a Vintage is six to seven years old. And last but not least it’s about the dis­­gorging, the precision of the dosage to give it the extra touch”.

While I love drinking a zero dosage champagne (with almost no sugar added), Domi­nique’s favourite is the Réflexion R.021: “I was surprised even though I created it. Anytime I try it, I think: how wonderful! The Réflexion concept is based on the connection between the consistency of style, the perfect balance between intensity, depth, purity and freshness. But when we speak about the soul of bubbly – the soul of a glass of champagne – it’s all about the sharing. For me it’s bringing happiness and joy to people”. – I argued with Dominique that happiness should also be possible without champagne. His answer tells you everything you need to know about him: “Yes of course, Sandra-Stella. But if you do not have that with a glass of champagne, you’re missing something”.

www.champagne-lallier.com

Good news for everyone joining one of the Bargespräche in Zurich this year: Lallier is our new part­­­­­­­­ner – and thanks to Lallier, we will pamper you and celebrate a happy and inspiring time!


Creator
Sandra-Stella Triebl
Chefredakteurin

Quelle: Sandra-Stella Triebl: „Slow Down and Enjoy“, Ladies Drive Magazin, Nr. 70 (2025), S. 58-59.

Veröffentlicht online am 14 Juni, 2025
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